Juniperus procumbens
57 Nana Juniper (Japanese Garden Juniper) bonsai in stock, from $16.95 Shipped direct from our nursery partners, with a 48-hour live-arrival guarantee. See the trees
Zones 4 to 9, outdoor only. Japanese garden juniper, Juniperus procumbens.
Cupressaceae (the cypress family) · Evergreen conifer, a low creeping shrub
| USDA zones | 4 to 9 in the ground [2] [5]; no source gives a zone for a pot |
|---|---|
| Indoor / outdoor | Outdoor only: a juniper cannot live inside the house [13] |
| Light | Full sun [2] [5] [13]; at least half a day of it [14] |
| Water | Let the soil dry slightly before watering [13], but never let it dry out completely [14] [15]; it dislikes wet soil [5] [13] |
| Soil | Free-draining bonsai mix [13] |
| Repot | Every 2 years [13]; older trees every 3 to 4 years [15] |
| Frost | RHS H7, below -4°F (-20°C), for a garden plant [4]; in a pot, protect it below 15°F (-10°C) [13] |
| Mature height | 6 in to 1 ft (15 to 30 cm) tall and 3 to 6 ft (0.9 to 1.8 m) wide in the ground [2]; Cornell gives a spread of 10 to 12 ft [7]; no source gives a bonsai size |
| Growth rate | Slow in the ground [2] [10]; not rated as a bonsai |
| Season of interest | Bluish-green needles all year [2], may be tinged purple in winter [5] [6] |
| Leaf reduction | Not rated by the sources we checked |
| Main risks | Main risks, not ranked by any source: wet soil and root rot [11] [13]; life inside the house [13] |
Japanese garden juniper, Juniperus procumbens, is native to western and southern Korea and southern Japan down to the Nansei-shoto islands [1]; Kew accepts the name and places it in the Cupressaceae [1]. The American Conifer Society says its status as a wild plant is disputed and that it is sometimes treated as a variety of Chinese juniper, Juniperus chinensis var. procumbens [10]. 'Nana' is a dwarf, slow-growing form [8] [10], brought from Japan in 1922 [6].
In a garden it makes a dense, compact mat [2]. It is the tree most often used for "mall bonsai" [15], though trained properly it makes a fine bonsai [15]. The Morton Arboretum uses dwarf Japanese garden juniper for its beginner's bonsai workshop [17]. Its low, spreading habit suits cascade and semi-cascade styles [15], and Bonsai Empire calls junipers in general great for deadwood, meaning jin and shari [13].
Foliage. Prickly, awl-shaped, bluish-green needles [2] in whorls of three, 1/4 to 5/16 in (6 to 8 mm) long [6]. They are mostly juvenile, with two white stomatal bands on the inner face [10], and winter cold can tinge them purple [5] [6].
Habit. Branches pile on one another and spread in sprays [6], intertwining into a mat [2]. Left unshaped, it grows as a ground cover [13].
Cones. Occasional berry-like seed cones [5], about 0.33 in (8 mm) across on the species [8].
Look-alikes & how to tell them apart: Chinese juniper carries both juvenile needles and flat adult scale leaves and grows into a bushy conical tree [3]; Nana Juniper keeps mostly needles [10] and a low mat habit [2]. Bonsai Empire uses Green Mound Juniper as another name for 'Nana' [13], but Cornell lists 'Greenmound' as a separate cultivar, flat and carpet-like with green needles [7].
In the ground: zones 4a to 9b (NC State) [2], 4 to 9 (Chicago Botanic Garden) [5], hardy to zone 4 (Oregon State, UConn) [6] [8]; Cornell gives zone 5a for the species [7]. The RHS rates it H7, hardy below -4°F (-20°C) [4].
In a pot the roots need protection from extreme heat or cold [15]. Bonsai Empire protects the tree below 15°F (-10°C) [13]. New England Bonsai winters it somewhere cool, bright and ventilated at 25 to 45°F (-4 to 7°C) and puts it out in spring once it is above 40°F (4°C) [14].
Inside the house. Bonsai Empire says a juniper cannot live inside and should go back out after a day or two on display [13]. New England Bonsai differs for a tree that arrives in winter: it waits in a cool, bright window until it can go out [14].
Full sun [2] [5] [6], with plenty of it all year [13]; New England Bonsai asks for at least half a day [14]. The RHS also allows partial shade for garden plants [4], and in Phoenix the local society shields smaller trees from direct afternoon sun [16].
Sources differ in emphasis. Bonsai Empire lets the soil dry slightly before watering and warns that juniper roots dislike wet soil [13], though its FAQ says never let it dry out completely [13]. New England Bonsai checks daily, never lets the root ball dry right out, but does not keep it sodden [14]. Bonsai Clubs International waters when the top 1/2 to 1 in (1.3 to 2.5 cm) is moderately dry [15].
Chicago Botanic Garden says it cannot tolerate wet soils [5], and Clemson lists 'Nana' as highly susceptible to Phytophthora root rot [11]. NC State's drought tolerance [2] describes plants in the ground, not in a pot.
Misting. Bonsai Empire mists regularly [13] and Bonsai Clubs International sprays the foliage daily in the growing season [15].
Bonsai Empire uses a basic or slightly more free-draining bonsai mix [13]. Bonsai Clubs International quotes several published recipes, such as Simon and Schuster's 60% soil, 10% peat and 30% coarse sand [15].
Repotting differs by source. Bonsai Empire repots every two years in early spring, very old trees less often, without heavy root pruning [13]. Bonsai Clubs International repots trees up to 10 years old every other year and older trees every 3 to 4 years, removing no more than a third of the roots [15]. New England Bonsai says young trees or small pots may need it yearly, most safely as spring growth starts [14]. The Phoenix society repots in January to February for the Phoenix climate [16].
Bonsai Empire feeds organic pellets monthly or liquid weekly through the growing season, with more nitrogen in spring [13]. Bonsai Clubs International feeds every 20 to 30 days from early spring to autumn, but not in the hottest part of summer, nor a weak tree or one repotted within 2 to 4 weeks [15]. New England Bonsai does not feed during winter dormancy [14].
Tools differ. Bonsai Empire pinches long shoots or cuts them at the base with sharp scissors and thins dense pads with scissors [13]. Bonsai Clubs International and the Phoenix society pinch with the fingers and avoid scissors, saying cut needles turn brown [15] [16]. Bonsai Empire and New England Bonsai both warn against shearing it like a hedge [13] [14].
Keep green on every branch. A juniper cannot bud again from bare parts [13].
Timing. Bonsai Empire prunes structurally in early spring or late autumn [13]; the Phoenix society in February to March and October [16].
Wiring. Best in autumn or early winter; at other times watch for wire cutting in [15]. Bonsai Empire protects hard bends with raffia or tape and takes care around deadwood, which breaks easily [13].
Styles. Cascade and semi-cascade; probably not formal upright [15].
Ease: Not rated by the sources we checked. Best methods: semi-hardwood cuttings [4]; cuttings rooted under mist, or layering [15].
Treat mites with insecticidal soap [15].
Phytophthora root rot. Clemson names 'Nana' as highly susceptible [11]. Signs include gradual decline, thinning foliage, branches dying one at a time and roots with reddish-brown centers; it cannot be cured once symptoms show [11].
Tip blights. Cornell, UConn and Oklahoma State name Phomopsis [7] [8] [9]. Phomopsis spreads in spring and first shows as yellow spots on new needles; Kabatina enters wounds in autumn and shows in February and March [12]. Prune out infected tips in dry summer weather and avoid excessive pruning or shearing [12].
Rust. Bonsai Empire says rust infects a juniper permanently and cannot be cured [13]. Clemson prunes off cedar-apple rust galls before they release spores [11]. The RHS also lists canker and honey fungus [4].
No source we checked ranks these. They are the main risks the sources describe, in no particular order:
The RHS lists 'Nana' as harmful if eaten and a skin allergen, and advises gloves when handling it [4]. NC State notes that the prickly needles may irritate skin [2]. We found no ASPCA entry for this juniper, so we cannot say how it affects pets.
Trees from our own bench, filmed while we worked on them.
Play video (0:28)I took this juniper from a dense, shapeless bush to a wired, open silhouette in one session. The part that looks reckless is not the part that kills junipers. Root rot from soil that never dries does, and so does being kept indoors. The one pruning rule I hold to here: leave green foliage on every branch you intend to keep.
Play video (0:25)A juniper wired and set into shape in one session. The foliage stays on and the wire does the shaping. Junipers do not reliably bud back on bare old wood, so every branch I plan to keep needs green left on it. Wire first, thin later.
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