Juniperus chinensis
2 Chinese Juniper bonsai in stock, from $425.00 Shipped direct from our nursery partners, with a 48-hour live-arrival guarantee. See the trees
Zones 4 to 9, outdoor only. Native from the Russian Far East to northern Myanmar and temperate East Asia.
Cupressaceae (the cypress family) · Evergreen conifer (creeping shrub, shrub or tree)
Compare your tree against these to confirm the species and spot problems early.
| USDA zones | 4 to 9 in the ground [2] [6]; Oregon State gives 3 to 9 depending on cultivar [5]; no source gives a zone for a pot |
|---|---|
| Indoor / outdoor | Outdoor only: it cannot live in the house, though it can come inside for a day or two for display [12] |
| Light | Full sun [2] [6]; a bright, sunny spot outside all year [12] |
| Water | Let the soil dry slightly before watering, since the tree dislikes wet roots [12]; water less in winter but do not let it dry out completely [15] |
| Soil | Well-drained [8] [14]; a basic or slightly more draining bonsai mix [12] |
| Repot | Sources differ: every two years, older trees less often [12]; every four to five years [15] |
| Frost | Hardy to zone 4 in the ground [2] [7]; in a pot, Bonsai Empire protects it once temperatures drop below 15°F (-9°C) [12] |
| Mature height | 50 to 60 ft (15 to 18 m) [2] [6] or up to 70 ft (20 m) [5] in the ground; 'Shimpaku' 1 to 3 ft [3] [5]; no source gives a bonsai size |
| Growth rate | NC State rates it medium but describes it as slow growing [2]; Morton says slow [6]; 'Shimpaku' slow [3]; not rated as a bonsai |
| Season of interest | Evergreen all year [2]; bark peeling in thin strips [2]; blue, fleshy cones on female plants [2] |
| Leaf reduction | Not rated by the sources we checked; pinching the tips keeps 'Shimpaku' compact [14] |
| Main risks | Main risks, not ranked by any source: overwatering [12] and root rot [9]; keeping it in the house [12]; cutting branches back to bare wood [12] |
Chinese juniper is native from the Russian Far East to northern Myanmar and temperate East Asia [1]. Kew accepts Juniperus chinensis, with Sabina chinensis as a synonym [1] [2]. The plant ranges from a creeping shrub to a tree of up to 82 ft (25 m) [7], and the Gymnosperm Database calls it possibly the most common ornamental juniper [7].
Shimpaku is the form bonsai growers prize. Bonsai Empire calls it a variety of Chinese juniper first found in the mountains of Japan, though the same page also lists it as Juniperus sargentii [12]; the Gymnosperm Database treats Sargent juniper as J. chinensis var. sargentii [7]. 'Itoigawa' is popular for its delicate emerald-green foliage [12], and 'Kishu' has smaller, tighter foliage than 'Shimpaku' [14].
Juvenile needles and adult scales are usually found on the same plant [8]. Bonsai Empire rates junipers as great for deadwood, jin and shari, and calls them strong trees that take aggressive pruning, but they cannot bud again from bare parts [12]. It is an outdoor tree [12].
Foliage. Juvenile needles are sharp and awl-shaped, about 0.3 in (8 mm) long [5], in pairs or threes [5] [6], and predominate on young plants and lower branches [7]. Adult leaves are small scales in opposite pairs, flat along the shoot [5] [6].
Bark & trunk. Ridged and fissured, peeling in thin strips [2] or flakes [7].
Cones. Male and female cones usually grow on separate plants [2] [7]. Female cones are fleshy and berry-like, described as blue [2] or purple-black to purple-brown [7], 0.16 to 0.39 in (4 to 10 mm) across [7], ripening in their second year [8].
Look-alikes & how to tell them apart: Japanese garden juniper (Juniperus procumbens) was once classed as a variety of Chinese juniper [4]. It is a low, spreading shrub with spiny needles in whorls of three [4]; Chinese juniper grows adult scales in opposite pairs [5]. Some Chinese juniper cultivars also creep, such as 'San Jose' [5], so check the foliage, not the habit.
All zone figures are for trees in the ground: 4a to 9b (NC State) [2], 4 to 9 (Morton) [6], 3 to 9 depending on cultivar (Oregon State) [5]. The Gymnosperm Database says hardy to zone 4, a limit of -30 to -20°F (-34.4 to -28.9°C) [7]; the RHS rates it H6, -4 to 5°F (-20 to -15°C) [8].
In a pot, Bonsai Empire protects the tree, in a coldframe for example, once temperatures drop below 15°F (-9°C) [12]. Brussel's Bonsai keeps outdoor bonsai outside for winter dormancy, mulches the pot as temperatures near freezing and shelters it from wind, moving it to a shed, garage or cold frame in very cold climates [15]. Some junipers turn purplish brown in frost [12].
Full sun, 6 or more hours of direct light a day [2] [6]; Bonsai Empire keeps it outside all year in a bright spot [12]. For garden plants, Oregon State and the RHS also accept partial shade [5] [8], and Brussel's Bonsai's general advice for outdoor bonsai is morning sun and afternoon shade [15].
Let it dry slightly, then water. Bonsai Empire warns against overwatering, since juniper roots do not like wet soil, and lets the soil dry slightly first [12]. Brussel's Bonsai waters outdoor bonsai daily from spring through fall, less in winter, and never lets the soil dry out [15].
Overwatering, heavy pruning and bending can all bring back juvenile needles for a few years [12]. Misting helps, especially after repotting [12]. Water early in the day so the foliage dries [11] and avoid sprinklers where you can [10]: wet foliage helps tip blight spread [10] [11]. The drought tolerance NC State and Morton describe [2] [6] is for trees in the ground.
Soil: well-drained [8] [14]; Bonsai Empire uses a basic or slightly more draining bonsai mix [12]. No source we checked gives a recipe. Good drainage is the main defense against Phytophthora root rot [9].
Repotting: every two years, very old trees less often (Bonsai Empire) [12], or every four to five years (Brussel's Bonsai) [15]. Repot in early spring [12], or late winter to early spring before new growth [15]. Do not prune the roots too hard [12].
Bonsai Empire feeds through the growing season with organic pellets once a month or liquid fertilizer once a week, adding more nitrogen in spring for strong growth [12]. Brussel's Bonsai recommends slow-release organic fertilizer for mature trees [15].
Ease: Not rated by the sources we checked. Best method: cuttings [2] [8].
NC State recommends stem cuttings [2] and the RHS semi-hardwood cuttings [8]; Bonsai Empire uses seed or cuttings [12]. Seed needs both male and female trees, because the species is dioecious [2]. Evergreen Gardenworks sells its small 'Shimpaku' (in 2 3/4 in pots) as one- to two-year-old cuttings [14].
Bonsai Empire says a well-kept juniper is very resistant to pests [12]. Watch for:
No source we checked ranks these. They are the main risks the sources describe, in no particular order:
The RHS lists Juniperus chinensis as harmful if eaten and a skin allergen, and advises gloves when handling it [8]. NC State tags it for contact dermatitis [2]. We found no ASPCA entry for this juniper, so we cannot say how it affects cats or dogs.
Trees from our own bench, filmed while we worked on them.
Play video (0:25)A Chinese juniper thinned and restyled in one session. The cut can be hard. The branch cannot be bare: junipers do not reliably back-bud on bare old wood, so every branch I keep has foliage left on it. Turning the pot on a turntable is how I found the new front.
| Cultivar | Botanical name | USDA zones | Growth rate |
|---|---|---|---|
| San Jose Juniper | Juniperus chinensis 'San Jose' | 4 to 9 | Moderate |
| Shimpaku Juniper | Juniperus chinensis 'Shimpaku' | 4 to 9 | Slow |
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